As Told by Gabriel Balderas | Photography by Brittany Strickland
I grew up in Oaxaca, Mexico, where food was never just food.
It was the smell of herbs in the garden, the sound of hands working dough, the color of peppers drying in the sun, the wisdom of knowing when something was ready to harvest. It was family, culture, health, and respect — all growing from the same soil.
In Oaxaca, you learn early that what you eat matters. You learn that the earth provides, but only if you take care of it. You learn that plants have purpose, animals have purpose, and nothing should be wasted. That way of life never left me. It followed me here to North Louisiana, and it lives in the food we serve at Zuzul, El Cabo Verde and now, The Brine. Why Shreveport – I loved the name when I heard it. Once I came here and visited, I knew this would be my new home. I never wanted to leave – except to visit my other homes. Shreveport has been good to me, so I will be good to Shreveport – bringing the best foods to my restaurants for my customers – and many are like my family.
For me, farm-to-table is not a trend. It is not a marketing phrase. It is my lifestyle. I grow what I can on our farm because I believe food tastes better when it is close to the earth. Tomatoes, peppers, greens, Brussels sprouts, herbs, native plants, and plants that remind me of home all have a place in my garden. Some thrive easily in North Louisiana. Others need more care. When the cold comes, I cut certain plants back and wrap them carefully with insulation. When the danger of freezing has passed, I unwrap them and begin again, watching for tender new growth.
There is something sacred about that process. You learn patience. You learn faith. You learn that life often comes back quietly.
I do not use pesticides in the way many people expect. Instead, I pay attention to the plants themselves. Some plants help redirect insects. Some protect others. Some invite beneficial creatures into the garden. Nature already has a system; my job is not to overpower it, but to understand it. Even the snakes have their place. Most snakes we see in the garden are not enemies. Many are helpful. They control pests and keep balance. Of course, I watch carefully around the henhouse, but I do not believe in being afraid of the outdoors. I believe in respecting it.
Here, at Nourishing Farms, everything has purpose. The chickens, quail, ducks, and geese we raise are part of the full farm-to-table experience at our restaurants, all done with proper licensing and care. Our goats are milking goats, and yes, I make cheese. The animals help maintain the land, fertilize the soil, and keep cleared areas healthy. The pigs disturb the base of trees and naturally till the ground. Free-range poultry moves across the property because their waste is good for the soil — but only when it is spread naturally, not concentrated in one place.
Even our seafood has a story. I carefully curate seafood from the docks along the coast. When we use oysters, the shells are not discarded. They are ground and returned to the garden, replenishing nutrients in the soil. That is regenerative farming. It is not just growing. It is restoring. The farm is arranged for natural water collection, retention, and irrigation. The wooded areas provide shade for the animals. Compost returns life to the garden. What comes from the land is used, reused, and honored.
I believe stewardship is one of our greatest responsibilities. We are not owners of the earth as much as we are caretakers. When you grow food, raise animals, and cook for people, you begin to understand how connected everything is. The soil, the rain, the insects, the animals, the herbs, the hands that harvest, the hands that cook, and the people who gather around the table — it is all one story.
At Zuzul, El Cabo Verde and The Brine, guests taste more than a recipe. They taste where I come from. They taste Oaxaca. They taste Louisiana. They taste the garden, the farm, the coast, and the care behind every ingredient.
This is the way I grew up. This is the way I cook. This is the way I live. And when someone sits at my table, I want them to feel nourished — not just fed.
GABE’S GARDEN
Many of the plants Gabe grows are treasured in traditional Mexican cooking, herbal traditions, and whole-food living. While herbs and botanicals should never replace medical care, they have long been valued for the ways they support flavor, wellness, and connection to the land.
- Mint: Often used to soothe digestion and bring freshness to both food and tea.
- Oregano : A bold, aromatic herb rich in flavor and traditionally valued for its antioxidant properties.
- Loquats: Sweet-tart fruit containing vitamins, potassium, and carotenoids that support overall nutrition.
- Purslane: A nutrient-dense leafy green often considered a “weed,” but prized for plant-based omega-3’s and vitamins.
- Jerusalem Artichokes/Sunchokes: Known for inulin, a prebiotic fiber that supports gut health.
- Açaí: Deep purple berries known for antioxidants, fiber, and heart-healthy plant compounds.
- Mexican Sunflowers: Used in some folk traditions, especially in topical preparations – but not in human consumption.
- Moroheiya: A leafy green commonly used in soups and valued for calcium, beta-carotene, and vitamins.
- Epazote: A classic Mexican herb often cooked with beans and traditionally used to support digestion.
- Hoja Santa/Mexican Pepper Leaf: A fragrant “sacred leaf” with notes of anise, pepper, and eucalyptus, often used in Mexican cooking and traditional wellness practices. Natures parchment – used to wrap tamales, fish, meats and cheese before cooking.
Many of these can be found at Akin’s Nursery in Shreveport
Hungry for More?
Gabriel Balderas is the owner and chef at El Cabo Verde and Zuzul Coastal Cuisine in Shreveport, La, The Brine in Bossier City, La, and Papalotl in Oaxaca, Mexico. He also owns Nourishing Farms in North Louisiana. To learn more or book reservations at one of Gabe’s restaurants, follow them online.
@elcaboverde | @zuzulcoastalcuisine | @thebrinebossier | @papalotloax